Hong Kong – Bo Innovation (Molecular Gastronomy Restaurant)

That is not Chef Alvin Leung, but one of his chefs… who looked boss.

Unfortunately a chef of his status is in high demand so I didn’t get to meet him in person, although I spoke with him on the phone. It would have been nice to see him in action in his open kitchen, but I got a full view at the bar although seating there was tight. I was almost touching elbows with my neighbour and I felt like I was third-wheeling on their date, so while the bar is my favourite spot, I might reconsider here.

As for the food, it was on another level, both literally and figuratively. It is not for everyone, just like any molecular gastronomy. I don’t even like calling it “molecular gastronomy” because the word has such negative connotations these days because it has been so misused and abused, but it is what he does here. However he’s no amateur, and he’s not playing around in the kitchen.

You have to come here with the right mind-set. If you don’t like food messed with and you’re a traditionalist, then this is not for you. But if you can appreciate it for the technique, art, and science then you will likely be infatuated. The food is interesting and creative, and it tastes good, but it is not the same type of “good” as mom’s home cooking. It is not even apples and oranges, it is meat and vegetables.

I had Bo Innovation on my Hong Kong “bucket list” for a couple years, so I knew what to expect. I was prepared for my food to be manipulated and I was there to see his show. I was there to enter his world.

Given that Chef Leung is a trained engineer, he uses science to lead his cooking. While his food can come across as “scientific experiments” or “gimmicky”, they are well rehearsed with proper technique and intent. The food was based on traditional Chinese dishes and flavours, but the execution was unfamiliar and foreign. Molecular cooking tends to be like this and that’s the whole point. It’s to surprise you, and I was surprised.

Some dishes I found smart and exceptional, while others lost in translation. I wish there was more of a balance between dishes because I found most of them quite heavy, but there is no shortage of courses or portions and I was beyond stuffed (and I’m a big eater).

If I compare it to something I’ve been to before, it was a bit like benu, in the sense that it was a Chinese driven menu, but with the playfulness of Alinea. It’s not like either of the two, but it gives an idea.

I’ve never seen Chinese food transformed to something so different on this level, so it was successful in its “x-treme Chinese cuisine”. The taste and presentation is more subjective than most meals even at this caliber, but it is exciting and almost quirky.

I would recommend Bo Innovation for an out of the ordinary experience and he is pushing boundaries in Hong Kong.

As a modernist chef or modernist cuisine enthusiast, the menu would be inspiring, but otherwise it might leave you lost. I love modern cooking when it is in the right hands, and it’s in the right hands at Bo Innovation, but truly on the “x-treme” side.

I did not understand all the dishes, but that was a bit of the fun. They were wild. The plating and custom designed dinnerware added to the whole interactive experience, and it was a once in a lifetime meal. It’s a destination restaurant, and an unforgettable one regardless of one’s liking for it; and even if it is “not your thing” you have to admire the thought process and unique personality of his dishes.