Follow Me Foodie to Dish ‘N Dazzle!

A Recap of The BC Hospitality’s Dish ‘N Dazzle Gala.

I care more about the dish than the dazzle, but the dazzle is always nice! I was certainly dazzled with all the food, wine and entertainment, but what’s more important is why we were all here. I was invited to attend The British Columbia Hospitality Foundation‘s (BCHF) annual Dish ‘N Dazzle gala at The Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver. Part of the theme this year was Wines of Argentina and the event featured over 80 wines and food from 14 restaurants. All proceeds went to support BCHF which provides financial help for hospitality industry members facing overwhelming medical expenses as well as scholarships for hospitality and culinary students.

I honestly love and appreciate this industry. While some charities raise funds through hosting marathons or selling concert tickets, this industry celebrates all that is food and wine. Being able to run 10km is a healthy and satisfying goal, and being in the presence of legendary artists is truly a treat, but being able to eat and drink in order to support a good cause? Well now we’re talking my kind of language! Did I mention there was also a live band and that the 14 food stations were spread out in the Fairmont’s grand ballroom? So not only did we get to eat well, but I also got my music and cardio as I had to run around in circles making sure I tried every dish (maybe even twice… or three times), and capture all the culinary talent Vancouver has to offer. It was a great event with great people towards a great goal.

From cooks to chefs, winemakers to bartenders, restaurateurs to servers, food suppliers, industry media, industry publicists, vintners and wine sales representatives, it was an industry event that was open to the public. We were all there for one reason which was to support BC’s hospitality industry, so Follow Me Foodie to a recap of Dish ‘N Dazzle!

Grab a plate and your imagination because unfortunately you can’t try any of these things since it was made especially for the event. However in some cases the following restaurants did present things from their regular menu. Nonetheless due to the nature of the event I’m not going to comment on too much, although there were a few surprises and some restaurants that delivered beyond expectations. Oh and you might want to fill that plate I told you to grab because you’re sure to get hungry with what’s on the table!

On the table:

Market by Jean-Georges

Seared Sea Scallop, Caramelized Cauliflower, Caper Raisin Emulsion by Chef Wayne Harris

What a generous dish it was! Deep enough pockets to spoil the crowd! I have to start off with my favourite dish of the night. It was a beautifully seared scallop with a nice sweetness of raisins and good acidity from the capers in the emulsion for balance. It was salty, sweet and tangy and worth waiting in line for. I definitely went back for seconds, or thirds… okay fine I had at least 6. I could have pulled up a chair.

Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts

Dungeness Crab Salad with Albacore Tuna in a Sesame Cone with Sorrel Pesto by Chef Julian Bond

“I believe the children are our future, teach them well and let them lead the way” - lyrics from “Greatest Love Of All” by the late Whitney Houston. Yes, it still holds true! I’m also biased because of my associations with BC Chefs Association, but we really support PICA and students wanting to pursue a career in the culinary industry. The last time I tried dishes from their students was at the epic Taste of Talent Benefit Dinner followed by The Healthy Chefs Competition where they took “Best Entree” and “People’s Choice Award” – see here.

Café Pacifica

Espresso-Crusted New York Striploin with a Chimichurri Infused Vegetable Carbonada Crispy Chichiron by Chef Bob Wiles

This was actually the first plate I had so it set a pretty high standard. Top a lovely steak with crispy pork rinds and who needs onion rings? I’ve actually dined at the restaurant before so if you’re curious to see dinner there see my post for Cafe Pacifica at Pan Pacific Vancouver.

Red Churros Croustillant Lollipops Filled with Dulce de Leche Creme

And way to show off! Not that the rest of us didn’t appreciate it, but this was one of the few stations with two items and it was one of the two desserts of the whole event. I’m sure I wasn’t the only sweet tooth making multiple visits back. They were basically crispy cream puffs filled with dulce de leche and they were pretty freaking delicious. The liquid in the cup tasted like a shot of chilled cappuccino with fruit jellies in it.

Fleuri at The Sutton Place Hotel Vancouver

Albacore Tuna Soft Shell Taco by Chef Michael Deutsch

BC Clam Chowder with Chorizo and Carbonara Sabayon by Michael Deutsch

Fleuri also presented two dishes. Move over soup and sandwich and hello soup and tacos! It was the only soup of the night and with the sabayon melted into the hot broth it ended up tasting like a seafood bisque.

Granville Room

Seared Albarcore Tuna, Spicy Ramp Kimchi, Pickled Vegetables by Chef Kyle Agrios

Herons West Coast Kitchen + Bar at The Fairmont Waterfront

Charred Chimi Churri Hanger Steak Jalapeno Piperade Grilled Mini Fajita by Chef Dana Hauser

The plate from the host! The event was at Fairmont Waterfront so they had an upper advantage and featured a fancy carving station. Chef went with the Argentina wine theme, but the regular menu at the restaurant features local ingredients and West Coast cuisine… hence the name “Herons West Coast Kitchen”.

House of Empanadas

Assorted Savoury and Sweet Empanaditas with Chimichurri Sauce

It was nice to see a mom and pop shop next to the hotels and bigger named restaurants. I’ve actually been to House of Empanadas before too – see my post here.

Hy’s Encore Steakhouse

Hy’s Classic Steak Tartare by Chef Suthakar Jeyarasa

Just hearing the name I expected The ONLY New York Striploin, but it was beef tartare. It was really creamy and there was a lot of acidity from capers and lemon juice. If you’ve never been to Hy’s make sure you start with Cheese Toast for Two. I hate saying anything is “the best”, but honestly thinking about that Cheese Toast makes my knees weak. I know. Most of us are capable of making “Cheese Toast” at home, but this one is really good. If you don’t like it, you must be on a diet. It’s good enough that if I was lactose intolerant, I might just think it was still worth the consequence… thank the dairy gods I’m not.

Kitsilano Daily Kitchen

Cold Braised & Pickled Oxtail with Ancho, Leek & Asparagus, Meyer Lemon Aioli by Chef Brian Fowke

This was another smaller name and independent restaurant that offers more or less casual fine dining. I’m a fan of oxtail, but not sure how I felt about the chilled risotto execution. The restaurant is really unique though as they offer a new menu every single day that is inspired by local and seasonal ingredients. I really don’t know of any other restaurants doing “daily menus” quite so literally. It’s pretty impressive.

Oru Restaurant at The Fairmont Pacific Rim

House-Made Chorizo and Chapa Bread with Heart of Palm and Jicama Salsa by Chef Darren Brown

The bread was a bit hard, but it was one of the more inventive dishes and I just wanted to eat ice cream scoops of the heart of palm puree. It was almost like a bechamel or velouté sauce and heart of palm is so rare to come across that I savour the times I get it. It doesn’t taste like too much and it has a very mild flavour, but here it was done really well as a sauce.

PIER 7 Restaurant + Bar

Halibut Ceviche with Mango and Avocado by Chef Dino Renaerts

Rockford Wok|Bar|Grill

Blackened Prawn Tacos with Chocolate Bacon

This was the biggest surprise of the night for me! I was not expecting anything particularly memorable from Rockford, but it was actually one of my top 5 favourites of the night. The savoury and sweet was really well played and it was all in the chocolate bacon. Mind you the chocolate they used was almost a milk chocolate so it was quite sweet and the prawns were a bit drier, but given the time and proper preparation, these could have been a real hit! They already were for me and I was feeling the concept.

Sanafir of The Glowbal Collection

Grilled Beef Ensaladas with Avocado, Cilantro, Peanut & Passion Fruit Dressing by Chef Ray Bear

I missed a photo of Chef Ann Kirseböm’s Cranberry & Orange Confit with Chevre, Blue Cheese Cracker, but otherwise that sums up the food.

The Cocktail Shakedown

Alto de la Colino by Katie Sita from CinCin

Alto de la Colino Recipe

1.5 oz Bartlett Pear-infused Belvedere Vodka
.5 oz Argentine white wine
.25 oz St. Germain Elderflower Liquer
.25 oz Fresh lime juice
.5 oz Fresh Cucumber Juice

The Hand of God by Justin Taylor from YEW Restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel

The Hand of God Recipe

1.5 oz Mount Gay Eclipse Amber Rum
.5 oz Home Made Banana Liqueur
.125 oz Fernet Branca
1 bar spoon Mate powder
1 oz condensed milk
1 dark chocolate soccer ball cup

As soon as I saw the Fernet Branca it brought me back to my lesson in Amaro 101 – see here. Alone it is not so great, but in this cocktail it was good. Bartenders tend to understand Fernet Branca, I don’t… along with many other “non-bartender” people.

La Juan Pierrot by Joey Donnelly from The Granville Room

La Juan Pierrot Recipe

2 oz Cointreau
1 oz fresh grapefruit juice
.5 oz fresh lime juice
2 muddled strawberries
2 oz wheat ale

Rain Shadow by Katie McDonald from Veneto Tapa Lounge at Hotel Riaito

Rain Shadow Recipe

1 oz Hornitos Reposado Tequila (served neat in a glass “Sangrita”)
1 oz Argentine Malbec
1 oz Clamato Juice
1 barspoon handmade Chimichurri (Argentine/Mexican spice sauce)

Corazón de León by Trixie Blümel from Shangri-La Hotel

Corazón de León Recipe

2 oz Cocoa Yerba Mate-infused Hennessy VS Congnac
.5 oz Vya Sweet Vermouth
.5 oz Passionfruit Caramel Reduction
2 dashes The bitter Truth Creole Bitters

Sol De Mayo by Grant Sceney from Fairmont Pacific Rim

Sol De Mayo Recipe

1.5 oz Glenmorangie “The Original” Single Malt Scotch Whiskey
.66 oz Yerba Mate TEa Syrup
.5 oz Tio Pepe Fino Sherry
.5 oz Fresh grapefruit juice

I apologize for missing the last 2 cocktail photos, at this point I wasn’t even sure what I was taking photos of. With all the wine tastings and then the cocktails… I couldn’t take anymore alcohol. My capacity for food is 10 times my capacity for alcohol. Bear with my Asian genes.

And just to credit the wineries involved…

• Amalaya
• Bodega Catena
• Bodega Norton
• Bodegas Escorihuela 1884
• Casa Montes
• Clos de los Siete
• Dereco
• Familia Schroeder
• Familia Zuccardi
• Finca Flichman
• Flechas de los Andes- Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmund de Rothschild
• Las Perdices
• Michel Torino
• Pascual Toso
• Santa Ana
• Santa Julia
• Tapiz
• Trivento
• Va lentin Bianchi
• Vistalba

Restaurant: Diva at the Met
Cuisine: Pacific Northwest/International/Eclectic/Fine Dining
Last visited: May 10, 2012
Location: West Vancouver, BC (Robson/Downtown)
Address: 645 Howe Street (Inside Metropolitan Hotel)
Transit: Vancouver City Ctr Stn Southbound
Price Range: $30-50+ ($25-35 mains)

1: Poor 2: OK 3: Good 4: Very good 5: Excellent 6: FMF Must Try!

Food: 6 (based on Tasting Menu)
Service: n/a
Ambiance: 3
Overall: 5
Additional comments:

• Executive Chef Hamid Salimian
• Pacific Northwest
• Innovative cuisine
• Modernist techniques
• Local and exotic ingredients
• Seasonal ingredients
• Tasting menus
• Wine bar/wine pairings
• Bar/lounge seating
• Breakfast/bunch/lunch/dinner
• Complimentary valet if dining at restaurant

**Recommendations: Order the Tasting Menu. (Foie Gras Walnut, Puffed Foie Gras, Beef Tendon Chicharrón, White Salmon Gravlax, Scallop, Razor Clam, Albacore Tuna, Duo of Lamb, Pork Jowl were highlights from tasting menu)

Sometimes I find food that’s so beautiful it looks amazing from every angle…

“I will follow Him. Follow Him wherever He may go”… I now understand the meaning behind the lyrics “I Will Follow Him” from Sister Act. However my interpretation of “Him” refers to the chef. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been asked “what’s your favourite restaurant?” and my answer is simple: I don’t have one. For me, when all is said and done it comes down to the food, so I follow the chef more so than the restaurant, and in this case I follow Chef Hamid Salimian. This could be my longest post ever but the food and his talent are worth the read, so please grab a snack and Follow Me Foodie to one of my favourite chefs.

I’ll put my biases out there and say that I’ve known chef for a couple years now and I’ve become a huge fan. Not a creepy one, but I’m a full supporter and believer in what he does. I’m probably as passionate about his food as he is making it. I truly believe he is one of the leaders in Vancouver’s culinary industry and I can only hope he has his own restaurant one day.

To be honest, the room is a bit dated and stale and it lacks a sommelier, cocktail program and ambiance that is expected and desired at this level of dining. The food is the undeniable highlight. If you can get a seat at the kitchen bar, you’ll possibly forgive the rest as you become absorbed by the culinary action.

I first experienced Chef Hamid’s food and blogged about my admiration for what he does in my post The Apron in early 2011. Until this very day I haven’t written a post like that for any other chef I’ve come across since I’ve started this blog. It’s one of the most satisfying moments when I come across talent that’s so powerful that it makes me want to improve in what I do. I want to deliver a post that it deserves and credit those who teach me something new. I have lots to learn, but it is experiences like this that make me question the things I think I know and inspire me to learn the things I don’t.

It’s not that I haven’t encountered many great chefs or enjoyed unforgettable dining experiences, but what Hamid does is on another level. He’s up there with the Michelin Star Chefs and whatever “Best of” list you can think of, but his quiet persona and humble personality make him one of the less recognized chef names in the city. He’s no dark horse though, he’s the one training the horses. I mean that too.

Just like many great kitchens, his staff are his secret weapons and are incredibly talented. Any chef training under him that enters a culinary competition is usually a shoe in for a place on the podium. He’s known in the professional culinary world and is the mentor for many chefs competing in worldwide competitions. He has even competed in the qualification rounds for the world’s most prestigious culinary competition the Bocuse d’Or. Even though there is enough staff in the kitchen, the best part is that Hamid is always found in there actually cooking with them.

He may not have that “celebrity chef” status which is why he tends to fly under the radar, but good is good and what he does is rare in Vancouver. He’s really one of the most humble people I’ve met and I’ll stand by every word I said in my posts about him – which are here, here, here, and now here. I’ve written about his works of art on four occasions now (although I have tried it more than 4 times and mentioned his name in numerous articles), and have nonetheless gotten familiar with his style, taste, palate and interpretation of ingredients and beauty.

The food he makes is inspired by the little things in life. It showcases a world that is under appreciated or rarely experienced. Although I am a supporter of local ingredients, there’s just some things that you can’t learn from what is produced by your own home. While there is a use of local West Coast ingredients there is also an incorporation of carefully selected exotic ingredients that are greatly highlighted through his seasonal menus. He makes me want to see the world through his eyes. It’s hard to taste food through another palate that isn’t your own, but it happens to me here.

On the other hand, this is food that is not for everyone and I wouldn’t be surprise if there were diners who probably leave thinking “was that really food?” or “what did I just eat?”. However if you know what to expect coming in, the food is a lot easier to understand. The menu looks like a shopping list of ingredients and you’re basically eating time rehearsed kitchen experiments of a culinary genius and his well trained staff. The dishes are labour intensive and science driven, yet they are delivered with an appreciation for play and art. The dishes are culinary inventions which use traditional techniques applied in new ways and with new ingredients. Every plate on the tasting menu is an artistic expression of a passionate chef and his talented team.

Chef Hamid’s food is competition style food which pushes the boundaries of most Vancouver palates. Each bite tends to be an explosion of flavours achieved by many ingredients, so it’s not for a “salt and pepper” palate or traditionalist. Chef’s Persian background and pride in his culture’s ingredients are subtly showcased yet boldly recognized in terms of flavour. It’s a refreshing change from the “Asian fusion” found all over the city, which I do love, but this is another cultural side of Vancouver we rarely see incorporated in Pacific Northwest cuisine.

The balance with sour and salty are always dominant and currently there is a keen interest in foraging. There is a focus on aromatics, textures, fine details and a very distinct attention to achieving that umami (savoury) taste in every dish. If anything, the sweetness of the dishes are downplayed and the application of culinary experiments can be questionable, although never a novelty since they are well executed.

This style of dining excites me and it is my style of dining. I learn something new when I come here. As a food enthusiast that’s all I want from any dining experience regardless of it being fine dining or not. It comes to a point where it’s not about being good, but about appreciating the technique, skill, creativity and imagination behind a chef and his craft. He takes risks and shows the future of food by stepping outside of the ordinary. The cuisine works to show an emotional connection with the farmer, ingredient, chef, diner, plate and palate. It delivers beyond a satisfied appetite and a pleasant meal. It is when I get a sense of discovery and anticipation to learn that I have a dining experience that becomes unforgettable. I truly value and respect what goes on in this kitchen.

I highly recommend you to order from the Tasting Menu. It’s the only way to eat here. He is an artist and just like Chef Jefferson Alvarez at Fraîche, you can’t tie the hands of an artist. You have to let them do what they do and that’s what makes them so good at what they do. His avante garde style and modernist techniques are along the lines of Chef Rene Redzepi of NOMA, Chef Grant Achatz of Alinea, and Chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, each of those are different but they are some of the legendary chefs of modern cuisine. These are the artists that don’t paint with the colours they are given, they take the colours that exist and create new ones we’ve never seen.

**Note: The following is a customized Tasting Menu compliments of Hamid with add ons to his regular Tasting Menu. There are no expectations for the outcome of this post. Tasting menus are seasonally inspired and start at 5 courses for $55 with wine for $95 and 7 courses for $75 with wine for $130. 

On the table:

Complimentary Bread & Butter

• I always appreciate complimentary bread and at this level of dining I do expect it.
• There was a pecan bread with I think fennel seeds, a smoked sea salt and onion bread, a rye bread and then poppy seed, cumin and sesame crisps.
• I’m not sure which were made in house if any, and it’s not stand out bread but I liked the assortment.

The bread was served with butter and brown butter powder. Visually I thought it was tomato powder and I even found it a bit tangy, so there might have been added lemon juice to the brown butter. It looks pretty intense, but it is easy to make and you just need maltodextrin (which I doubt is in everyone’s pantry). It’s a powder made from starches like corn or tapioca.

The Tasting Menus start of with a series of “Diva Snacks”.

“Diva Snacks”

Olive Oil Marshmallow – 3/6 (Good)

• With olive oil butter, kalamata salt and basil.
• I was brought back to memories of Hamid’s Foie Gras Marshmallows. Personally I prefer foie to olive oil, but really they were both fun.
• If the idea throws you off, just think olive oil cake and now it’s just olive oil used to make a marshmallow.
• The olive oil marshmallows were very soft, airy and light with a slightly crisp exterior and the kalamata salt was where I got most of the olive flavour from.
• They weren’t really sweet and I can’t say they were strong with olive oil flavour, but it was almost too small of a bite to really tell.
• The olive oil powder was so light and mildly sweet (likely from the natural maltodextrin flavour), and I almost had to hold onto it in my mouth before it went away.
• It’s made the same way as the brown butter powder, but it requires more maltodextrin.
• My first time trying olive oil powder was actually at Laurie Raphaël in Quebec City – see here.
• I listed Gourmet Marshmallows as one of the “dessert trends” for Vancouver this year too – see Vancouver Dessert Trends 2012.

Northern Divine Caviar - 5/6 (Excellent)

• With dehydrated brioche, crème fraîche and dill.
• This is one of my favourite caviar, not that I have caviar all the time, but this one is not only memorable, but also sustainable.
• I first tried in at a Northern Divine Caviar dinner at C Restaurant.
• The caviar is very smooth, delicate and mild and it’s not salty.
• It doesn’t pop because it’s not soaked in borax and it doesn’t have a fishy aftertaste.
• It was placed on crispy dehydrated buttery brioche with tangy crème fraîche and the hint of dill came at the end.
• I wouldn’t have minded the dill chopped up or folded in the crème fraîche just because it was quite a big sprig for a small bite.
• The amuse bouche was excellent because the caviar is excellent, but I actually prefer such high quality ingredients to be served in more traditional methods.
• I know it’s not the style here and while it was traditional in theory, it was still a bit modern in execution.
• I would have liked it on a traditional potato blini as opposed to a crunchy and dry dehydrated brioche (which was supposed to imitate a crostini).
• I find the potato blini showcases the smooth texture of the caviar better.
• If it was my first time trying Northern Divine Caviar, I’m not sure if this method would have done it justice. It is an exquisite caviar.
• For interests sake, the Lemon Garden Cafe at The Shangri-La Hotel in Malaysia has a caviar buffet – see here.

Baked Potato & Chives “Chip” – 5/6 (Excellent)

• Baked potato, summer truffles and chive flowers
• I honestly just wanted a bag of these. It was unlike any “potato chip” I’ve ever seen or had.
• It was the epitome of a pretentious potato chip!
• It was paper thin sheets of “baked potato” and they were so delicate, flaky and crisp.
• They looked so plain and bland, but the potatoes were boiled in a stock so they were infused with flavour and aromatics. There wasn’t a flavour I could pick out, but it was more than jut salt.
• The potato skins are boiled, dehydrated and then fried and sprinkled with salt.
• They were a bit oily, but it was almost like the potato version of seaweed.
• The freshly shaved truffles on top just added to the aromas and delicate texture, but the flavour of the summer truffles were rather mild.
• The little dollops of crème fraîche, sour cream or aioli was almost like the “dip” to the chip and I think it was used as the “glue” for the truffles to adhere.
• It really tasted like the most elegant version of a potato chip and dip.
• Chef Grant Achatz at Alinea makes a raspberry version of this and if you see the process, it can take days so I really appreciate these.

**Foie Gras Walnut – 6/6 (FMF Must Try!)

• With quince purée and melba toast
• I was so happy to see the black walnut or foie gras walnut.
• I was first introduced to it at the Taste of Talent Benefit Dinner and it was served with a Smoked Kangaroo Loin – see here.
• I honestly could have had a tube of this foie gras which was inspired by Joël Robuchon, but reinterpreted by Hamid.
• The foie gras walnut was incredibly rich and buttery and made with foie gras and what seemed like lots of cream and butter.
• It looked like a walnut, but I couldn’t actually taste the walnut although it was very buttery in flavour like a walnut naturally is.
• It was completely smooth in texture and it just melted away in my mouth like liquid silk, but I could taste the foie in the nose and on my palate.
• It was much thinner than a traditional pâté, but the flavour was rich and intense.
• It could have been a torchon style foie gras where it’s slowly cooked and almost raw, and I think if anything the black walnut gave it colour.
• It had that umami flavour that both foie gras and walnuts naturally have, but I’m not sure what else was in it to give it that complex savouriness. It was melting before I could even pick them out.
• The quince puree was the tangy, sour and sweet fruit component to the foie gras which is always ideal.
• Quince is one of my favourites and it’s so naturally aromatic and this one was likely reduced with some apple cider vinegar.
• I really just wanted 100 of these bites.

**Beef Tendon Chicharrón - 6/6 (FMF Must Try!)

• With beef tartare, pickled shallots, smoked aioli
• After the foie gras walnut, this was my next favourite amuse bouche.
• This was pretty much a reinterpretation of a traditional French beef tartare served with crostini, but instead it was with chicharrón.
• It was my first time trying beef tendon chicharrón although some restaurants in the States like Animal have started making it. Chef Michael Voltaggio was perhaps the instigator of this idea.
• Chicharrón is a popular South American snack and it’s always made with pork rind, so a beef tendon version was incredibly new and innovative to me.
• If you’ve never tried beef tendons they’re very gelatinous and can be chewy, but when they’re executed well they can be ultra creamy and tender, similar to beef fat.
• To get beef tendons to puff up like this is sick (I use that term in an urban way, meaning cool). It was almost magical, but I’m sure it required much trial and error.
• The beef tendon is brined, braised, sliced, and dehydrated before it is deep fried, so the labour is incredibly commendable.
• To get the tendon so tender and then to dry it to get it puffed is truly a technique I can only admire.
• The beef tendon puffs come across as Chinese prawn crackers or regular chicharrón and they don’t really have a meaty flavour.
• They were light and crispy chicharrón cups filled with beef tartare.
• The beef was hand cut into perfect cubes and slightly larger than the other ingredients so it played a forward role.
• All the other ingredients in the tartare were finely minced to an equal size which showed attention to detail and created balance and even texture.
• The buttery tartare was salty and tangy with smashed capers, crunchy pickles and onions.
• The smoked aioli was underneath so it was a refreshing change from the usual dijon mustard or aioli. This prevented any gloppiness too.
• I actually liked the aioli not mixed into the tartare so I could taste the natural quality and flavour of the beef.
• The smokiness of the aioli enhanced the meaty quality of the whole bite and gave it good aromatics.
• It tasted like a chip with sour cream and onion dip and beef tartare on top. Personally, I just wanted a raw quail’s egg added too.
• Another creative interpretation for beef tendon was this Candied Beef Tendon Cannoli at Campagnolo Roma.
• The Manchego Puff at Frîache was also another interesting concept for a “chicharrón”.

Chicharrón (Deep Fried Pork Rinds) – 4/6 (Very good)

• With Tobasco mayo and Tabasco powder
• This is the traditional chicharrón that I’m used to eating.
• Usually it takes on the shape of crispy foam like the Beef Tendon Chicharrón above, but in this case they were more like “Cheezies”. Actually that would be good! A “Cheezie Chicharrón!
• Anyway, they were light and crispy and served with a house made Tobasco mayo which was comparable to a chipotle mayo.
• It was a garlicky mayo that was sweet initially so I felt like it was made with sweet Japanese mayo.
• The heat and spice of the mayo was gradual and picked up progressively.
• They could sell this sauce in a bottle and I’d enjoy it happily with fries or a burger.
• The Tobasco powder was sweet and smoky and spicy at the end, but the spice wasn’t sharp and quite well rounded.
• It was made with perhaps sweet and smoky paprika, cayenne pepper and other spices.
• I could have had a bowl of these too and I wouldn’t be surprised if they offered it as a bar snack at the lounge.

Cotton Candy Pizza - 3.5/6 (Good-Very good)

• Sausage, tomato pizza powder, olive oil powder and parmesan cheese
• This was a bit of a novelty, but it still tasted good and was packed with flavour for a single bite.
• The bottom was a crispy pizza crust like shell that tasted like a rice cracker.
• It was filled with tomato paste, a piece of crispy sausage and then topped with cotton candy, pizza powder, olive oil powder and parmesan cheese shavings.
• The cotton candy was a bit compacted for a cleaner bite.
• There was a balanced salty and sweet contrast with good acidity from the tomato paste.
• The tomato paste was quite sharp and pungent and it tasted like it was puréed with either anchovies or olives.
• I’m not sure if the cotton candy did anything, but it was a neat idea.
• The bite was reminiscent of a pizza, but it was just nothing like a real pizza. It almost reminded me of those mini bagel pizza bites.
• Another interesting savoury cotton candy was the foie gras cotton candy served with the Foie Gras Parfait at Hawksworth.

**White Salmon Gravlax – 5/6 (Excellent)

• With nitro egg yolk and crispy salmon skin
• I loved these, and again I could have eaten 100.
• Crispy fish skin is one of my favourites and it was deep fried like salty chips.
• I actually prefer fish skin to chicharrón although that is comparing apples to oranges.
• The fish skin puffs were filled with pieces of cured salmon gravlax and the aftertaste was clean and not fishy.
• There was some sort of ice or flaked sorbet sprinkled on top with the nitro egg yolk and that gave the dish a refreshing touch.
• The nitro egg yolks really brought the flavours all together and gave it a richness.
• The bite was creamy and crunchy and reminiscent of smoked salmon cream cheese on chips although there was no smokiness.

Elderflower Ice

• This was the palate cleanser before the formal courses.
• Details like this really matter to me and it’s often forgotten at many fine dining restaurants in Metro Vancouver, so I was pleased to see it remembered here.
• This was almost like Mini Melts, but much icier and made with liquid nitrogen.
• It’s almost like instant sorbet and I’ve tried it from Hamid before.
• The Elderflower Ice had the flavour of Sprite and it was quite aromatic and lightly sweetened with perhaps added rose water.
• It was floral, but not perfume like and there may have been some calamansi juice in it too.
• It was quite tart and I could have even used some mint, but otherwise it was an ideal palate cleanser.

The Tasting Menu

Green Almond – 3.5/6 (Good-Very good)

• Radish, heart of palm, yogurt vinaigrette
• Wine pairing: Stag’s Hollow, Sauvignon Blanc, ’10, Okanagan Falls, BC
• I know! Pretty huh?! Not a sign of spinach, arugula, romaine, lettuce, frisée, “mixed greens” or “spring greens” and it was still a salad.
• I was so happy to make it just in time before the season ended for green almonds.
• Green almonds are a delicacy and they are highly prized because they’re only around for a short time. I think these are from Mikuni Wild.
• I had them in a dessert at La Belle Auberge see here, but here they were served in their natural state.
• The raw green almonds were sliced (they look like olives) and they have a fuzzy exterior like a peach.
• They are crunchy and taste like almonds if almonds were a fruit.
• They are not nutty or juicy, but they’re firm and sour and almost like eating a green papaya, but with the texture of a very unripe peach or nectarine.
• It was also served with sour plum which tasted like unripe raw and crunchy plums.
• The slices of plum were still juicy though and they looked like sliced green grapes, but they have a slightly bitter skin.
• The pickled cucumbers were actually the sweetest ingredients on the plate and it was perhaps juiciest too.
• It would have been nice to have some sweet kiwi in here to give it more of an obvious fruitiness since everything was so tart.

• It was a very refreshing salad which showcased many crunchy textures.
• The salad carried a lot of acidity and it was quite sour and cooling in ingredients.
• The yogurt vinaigrette was more like a light broth and it was poured over top upon serving.
• It was made with buttermilk, cucumber vinegar and yogurt, but it was mild enough that I could have drank it.
• The vinaigrette wasn’t creamy though and it was very light, but still on the acidic side although not super sour.
• It seemed thicker from the olive oil than the dairy and I would have preferred it a bit sweeter since the ingredients were so tart.
• The tapioca pearls were infused with cucumber juice and I think it was more for texture and presentation. Basil seeds would have also been nice.
• There was a lot of crunchy textures and different amounts of juice coming from each ingredient.
• Most of the ingredients were in their pure state which I liked since they were rather unfamiliar. The vinaigrette was the creative part.
• I appreciated the salad more because it showcased so many exotic ingredients, but it’s not something I would really crave.

**Scallop - 5/6 (Excellent)

• Taramasalata, black radish, cilantro
• Wine pairing: Stag’s Hollow,Sauvignon Blanc, ’10, Okanagan Falls, BC
• I know! I want to cry. Those purple-blue flowers… I almost wanted to put them in my pocket and take them home.
• It was a BC Qualicum Bay scallop tartare dressed in a creamy cod roe mayo dip called Taramasalata.
• I order Taramasalata at Greek restaurants, but I think this is the first time I’ve had it outside of a Greek restaurant.
• I didn’t even recognize it because it’s usually pink or orange in colour so this cod roe was a bit different and not as salty or fishy tasting.
• The scallops were naturally sweet and creamy and there were nice crunchy cubes of olive oil croutons sprinkled on top.
• The tartare had crunchy bits of finely minced jalapeño which added in texture and gave some back palate heat.
• The jalapeño helped build heat without spice as opposed to an obvious pepper like chilies, which could have overpowered the scallops.
• There was a good squeeze of lime to brighten up the seafood flavours and keep it fresh too.
• The dressing had an umami flavour and the combination of scallops and the type of cod roe used almost made it taste like a seafood version of foie gras.
• As a side note, the foie gras of the sea is actually monk fish liver (see here), but this was even better.
• I really loved the texture and flavours of this tartare and I found it incredibly well balanced as well as beautiful.

**Razor Clam – 5/6 (Excellent)

• Sunchoke, hon shimeji, tarragon
• Wine Pairing: Blue Mountain, Pinot Gris, ’10, Okanagan, BC
• Wow. It’s so rare to see razor clams in Vancouver! I only get them when I’m in Asia and I’ve had them on occasion in the States too. I was so happy to see them!
• It was topped with a Parmesan lace which was probably the nicest one I’ve seen to date.
• Usually the parmesan crisps are so thick and crunchy, but this one was so delicate, thin and flaky and made with super fine shavings of grated parmesan.
• The parmesan crisp wasn’t there to only look nice, but it gave the dish another layer of texture and nutty salty flavour.
• There were also some pencil thin young Spring asparagus which was good for colour since the mustardy colour of the broth wasn’t as appetizing.

• When it comes to playing with textures, I’m always blown away by Hamid’s attention to it.
• He used three ingredients with similar textures, but different flavours and it was quite a unique medley.
• The pieces of razor clams were sautéed with gnocchi and hon shimeji which is a Japanese Beech mushroom.
• Everything was cut to the same size and sautéed just to the right time that I almost couldn’t tell what was what.
• The 3 ingredients blended right in together in texture and colour.
• The razor clams are comparable to geoduck in texture and flavour and they weren’t chewy at all.
• It has a firm texture, but only becomes rubbery when overcooked and they were cooked perfectly here.
• The Beech mushrooms are slippery, but mild in flavour and I almost forgot about them. I guess they’re similar to Enoki, but bigger and meatier.
• The gnocchi was eggy and more like spaetzle (German egg noodle) and I had it once with his Atlantic Lobster Globe at The Apron (this dish is still available at Diva at the Met).
• It’s not my idea of gnocchi, but I liked it in this context because it just played right into the texture of the razor clams.
• The tarragon clam sauce was incredible although the colour was a bit of a turn off.
• It was on the salty side, but I did enjoy it. I would say it is a bit acquired though.
• The sauce was pungent and potent and it tasted like the briney ocean.
• It was made with clam nectar and the tomalley (brains and mussels) of the clam and that was the dominant flavour.
• Naturally, the tomalley is where all the flavour is and it was used to build the intensity of the sauce.
• The fresh and mild licorice flavour of the tarragon really brightened it up.
• It was a bit acidic as well from perhaps wine and or lemon juice.
• There was some undetectable pork lardo, but it could have lent itself nicely to build the savoury complexity and umami achieved in the sauce.

BC Spot Prawns - 4/6 (Very good)

• Grilled spot prawns, Kookoo Sabzi, sunchokes, garlic flowers, seville orange and dill water broth.
• Wine Pairing: Paul Zinck, Pinot Blanc, ’09, Alsace, France
• I was brought back to his Persian New Years menu he once served at The Apron – see Kookoo Sabzi.
• Being that it’s BC Spot Prawn season it was no surprise to have this as a course.
• For me, the only thing missing was the BC Spot Prawn shells and the head. It never feels like eating Spot Prawns without them.
• I’m a huge fan of the whole thing and I also eat the whole thing so I was a bit sad not to see them.
• On the bright side they use the head and shells for other things so it doesn’t go to waste.
• The prawns were smoky and on the rare side and almost like sashimi, but that didn’t bother me.
• I wouldn’t have minded them more grilled on the exterior, but I don’t think the grill was hot enough to sear them.
• The fried sunchoke chips made for crunchy texture since the prawns had no shells.

• Upon serving they poured a luke warm seville orange and dill water broth over top. It was the essence of the dish.
• I loved that it was served warm because the fragrant aromas just lifted off the plate and hit my nose.
• If the broth was hot it would have cooked the prawns and the flavours were so delicate that warm was best.
• The broth was made with vinegar and herb oil and it was more sour than sweet.
• It was still well rounded with the scent of seville orange or perhaps orange blossom water and the intensity of the dill was strong and well infused throughout the oil.
• I could have drank the broth alone so it wasn’t that sour or sweet, but just beautiful and bright in flavours.
• It was almost reminiscent of a warm sunomono broth for an easy Japanese food reference.
• The Kookoo Sabzi was the black mound of rolled paste that looked like a meatball.
• It’s a Persian herb frittata made with lots of puréed herbs and it was sharp and very tangy.
• It was almost like eating stewed and pickled herbs compacted into a paste and it’s made with scallions, dill and cilantro.
• The Kookoo Sabzi sat on top of sunchoke purée which was the sweetness to the dish and it kept the Kookoo Sabzi in place.
• The Kookoo Sabzi was nice when it melted into the broth and overall it was probably the most fragrant and aromatic dish of the night.

Halibut - 4.5/6 (Very good-Excellent)

• Chermoula, squid noodle, fava beans, burnt wild ramps
• Wine pairing: Joie Farm Rose (Pinot Noir/Gamay), ’10, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
• This was a work of art and I wanted to cry tears of joy at the presentation.
• It was another soupy dish which was unexpected but thoroughly enjoyed.
• It was again very fragrant and aromatic, but it was on the bolder side compared to the Spot Prawns.
• He was working up towards stronger flavours as the Tasting Menu progressed.
• This reminded me of his Mirza Ghasemi I once had from his Persian New Years Menu at The Apron. It was a reinterpretation of the dish, but it was similar in flavours.
• The fava beans underneath the fish were firm and not starchy and they were almost like sweet peas in texture.
• They put fava beans in a whole new light for me and I already liked them to begin with.
• I did miss the skin on the smoked halibut, but it was cooked perfectly.
• The halibut was juicy, moist and flaking apart with the touch of a fork.
• It seemed almost poached which is how I prefer halibut since overcooking it tends to be riskier with other methods.
• The halibut was under seasoned though so I was thankful that there were so many other flavours, sauces and broths in the bowl to make up for the blander fish.
• The brush of paste around the bowl was chermoula paste which is a Morccocan marinade for fish and it was very potent in flavour.
• Usually chermoula would be rubbed on the fish, so this was different.
• The paste was sour from perhaps added pomegranate paste, lemon juice, vinegar and/or perhaps tomato paste.
• As sour as it was, it was equally salty for balance and a bit smoky from cumin, paprika and cayenne for a bit of heat.
• It tasted like a sundried tomato paste but with more ground spices, cilantro flavour and a pleasant bitterness from the spices at the end.

• Upon serving there was a warm tomato based roasted halibut broth poured on top.
• I think the broth was made with added chermoula, but the fish flavour was masked by the paste.
• There may have been spot prawn shells used for this broth, but it was subtle if I didn’t pay attention and again the paste was stronger.
• I think the addition of Chinese dried shrimps or scallops would have done wonders to stand up to the paste.
• The flavours of the Moroccan style broth were very sweet and sour and reminiscent of tamarind juice or paste.
• I could taste saffron in it and the whole dish just reminded me of a Middle Eastern or African bouillabaisse.
• The broth had a million ingredients and some of them included ginger, preserved lemon, smoked paprika, kaffir lime, cumin, red pepper and tomato and the flavours were so complex and intense that I couldn’t pick anything out.
• The flavours were all really strong, smoky and bold and the charcoal scent of the burnt garlic ramps just added to the aromatics.
• The squid noodles were crispy and puffed, but obviously got soft and “noodle” like once they hit the broth.
• There was a good play with the sweet and sour and I’m not sure how I felt about the squid noodles but they were interesting and added texture.
• I really would be happy ordering this for lunch with vermicelli noodles though… a Persian noodle shop hasn’t hit Vancouver yet right?

**Albacore Tuna – 6/6 (FMF Must Try!)

• Salsa romesco, artichokes, eggplant, smoked quail egg
• Wine pairing: Blasted Church, Hatfield’s Fuse (Gew,Pg,Pb,Chrd,Er), ’10, Ok Valley BC
• It looked like edible nature and there were so many components and textures to play with and eat around.
• It was garnished with potato hearts, dill, clove flowers and chicory. This dish showcased the love for foraging best.
• I couldn’t even tell this was albacore tuna. The black coloured tuna didn’t exactly look pretty, but it was delicious!
• The albacore tuna came across as sashimi or Ahi Tuna.
• I couldn’t even tell if the outside was seared because it was rubbed in a black kalamata olive glaze and it was really potent in flavour and more like a paste.
• I wish there was a crust on the tuna though because it was kind of lacking in texture.
• The rub was salty, sour and tangy with a charcoal flavour, but it wasn’t bitter or burnt in a bad way.
• It was a very original interpretation for albacore tuna in Vancouver.
• For once, there was nothing Asian about this and instead it was very Spanish, Persian and Mediterranean in flavours.
• The flavour profile was quite similar to the Halibut Stew above, but this wasn’t as acidic.
• The salsa romesco was the Spanish component.
• It’s a sauce that’s made with puréed almonds, tomatoes, red peppers, garlic and chillies.
• It was very thick, creamy, nutty, tangy and salty and it carried a mild spiciness and flavours of smoky paprika. It would taste great with the BC Spot Prawns too.
• The creamy eggplant rouille was like an eggplant mayo, but it’s made with charred eggplant, bread crumbs, olive oil, garlic and chili.
• It was slightly bitter since it was likely made from charred eggplant with the skins on, but it played well with the tuna as a condiment.
• There was a pickled artichoke heart on the side, but I would have liked a pickled eggplant to match just because it could have used another vegetable.
• The smoked quail’s egg was soft boiled with a runny yolk and it had an infused smokiness that complemented all the other smoky flavours in the dish.
• The creamy runny yolk added a richness to the albacore tuna and I just wanted 10 of them to enjoy with every bite of tuna.
• For a sashimi style plate it was certainly different with a lot of rich flavours and creamy textures, but the dish itself was not rich.
• I probably could have used some pickled fennel, ginger or preserved lemon as a condiment on the side to break up the smoky flavours.
• I didn’t get to taste the natural flavour of the Albacore tuna too much, but I would still order this again.

**Pork Jowl – 5.5/6 (Excellent!)

• Chickpea dumpling, cauliflower, saffron
• Wine pairing: Chateau Ste Michelle, Riesling, ’10, Columbia Valley, Washington St
• The dish had two main components: a chickpea dumpling and a nice fatty piece of pork jowl.
• The chickpea dumpling was more like a patty and it tasted like a gourmet falafel.
• The dumpling was soft and I wish it was crispy on the outside, but it tasted amazing!
• The dumpling was made from chick peas (made from their dry state) and ground chicken and it was a bit mealy in texture, but not in a bad way.
• It was quite meaty yet crumbly from the chickpeas and it was like a hybrid of a falafel meets chicken sausage and a meaty polenta.
• The dumpling was nice and moist and full of savoury flavours and spices, but it wasn’t spicy or apparent with an obvious spice.
• It was topped with semi crispy and nutty cauliflower cous cous and I just wish it was crispier for more texture.
• I would have loved the cous cous with deep fried chick peas for an obvious crunch.

The photo looks the same, but this was after the saffron jus was poured over top.

• Upon serving they poured an onion gastrique and saffron jus on top.
• It made the cauliflower cous cous a bit soggy and it was already soft.
• The sauce was sweet, sour, and savoury and almost like a syrupy demi glace or fragrant caramel.
• It had the aromas and scent of saffron, but it wasn’t overpowering and there was a nice vinegar tang to keep it balanced.
• The piece of pork jowl next to the chickpea dumpling was small, but that’s really all I needed.
• Pork jowl (cheek) is as good as pork belly and it’s a cheap cut of meat, but when it’s executed well they are guilty indulgences.
• It actually had an unexpected thin skin on the outside, but it was only slightly crispy.
• There is usually a little meat on the jowl, but this one was almost all white and all fat and it was incredibly tender, soft and buttery.
• It was likely braised or sous vide, or maybe both and it melted in my mouth like cream.

**Duo of Lamb - 5.5/6 (Excellent!)

• Slow cooked neck, sirloin, smoked lentils, carrot, bluefoot mushrooms, balsamic jus and sorrel leaves.
• Wine pairing: Truchard, Cabernet Sauvignon, ’07, Napa Valley, California
• Oh I feel so spoiled when I get Bluefoot Mushrooms let alone caviar and foie gras at a dinner! There were so many delicacies to be savoured.
• Bluefoot Mushrooms are grown in the wild and they are highly prized mushrooms. I thought it was too early for them, but I wasn’t going to complain.
• It has a woody, rich, earthy and meaty flavour and texture.
• It’s almost like a Potobello mushroom meets a Porcini mushroom with the texture of a chanterelle.
• The roasted baby carrots were good quality and they had a natural sweetness.
• The sauce brushed on the plate was I think a lamb jus and maybe tomato paste and it was very salty and sour again. It had those Persian flavours that were introduced earlier.

• Upon serving they poured a 10 year old balsamic and lamb jus reduction on top.
• I’m actually not even sure it needed the sauce, or maybe it didn’t need so much of it.
• I love sauces, but this already had the sauce on the bottom which was quite strong.
• The 10 year old balsamic and lamb jus reduction was slightly over reduced though so it ended up being a bit too thick, but the flavour was incredible.
• It was extremely syrupy and sweet with a strong acidity and the flavour was just sticking to all my taste buds and the roof of my mouth.
• I’ve actually been lucky enough to get this lamb dish on a few occasions now.
• I consider it one of his signature dishes, but each time it’s interpreted slightly different.
• I tried his Lamb Duo once on the regular menu at The Apron - see Lamb Duo and then another time on his Persian New Years Menu - see Ghormeh Sabzi.
• So far the dish will always feature 2 parts of the lamb: the neck and the sirloin.
• The lamb neck is the part I like more and it was executed like a chunky terrine.
• It was presented in a solid rectangular piece which was pan seared on both sides.
• The neck is salt cured and cooked in orange, thyme, cumin and shallots and the flavours are really built throughout the piece of meat.
• The neck was all shredded and mixed with half meat and half fat.
• It was incredibly tender, a bit gelatinous, not chewy at all, moist and full of flavour with a mild gaminess at the end.
• The neck was topped with a roasted cipollini onion and draped with a sheet of celeraic, but I’m not sure if it had a purpose beyond looking interesting. It looked like a shaving of melted cheese.
• The celeraic wasn’t obvious in flavour until the after taste kicked in and it was creamy, but also slightly random. I’m not sure what it was supposed to complement.
• Chef Grant Achatz does something similar with a paper thin slice of Wagyu beef draped over a cipollini onion too.
• The lamb sirloin was moist and medium rare, but it wasn’t as special as the lamb neck which was original.
• The best part of the sirloin was the bed of smoky bacon and rye bread lentils it sat on.
• The lentils were firm and al dente and sauteed with carrots and onions for aromatics.
• There were crispy cubes of  toasted rye bread croutons for texture and the smoky bacon just enhanced that umami taste.
• I’m not sure if the lentils were braised in lamb jus or if they were just covered with the reduction, but they were sweet, tangy and salty and I could have eaten a whole bowl of them.

Avocado Marquise – 4/6 (Very good)

• Coconut, calamansi, black sesame
• Wine pairing: Prospect Point Lost Bar Viral Ice Wine, Ok Valley BC
• This was so interesting and I loved the concept of it, but I also wanted it to feel more like a dessert and it seemed like a dessert teaser.
• It looked exactly like an avocado, but I wish there was actual avocado on the plate too. The avocado flavour was very mild.
• Avocado works wonderfully in desserts and it can act as a substitution for butter in brownies (takes some adjusting). It’s a perfect match with cocoa and chocolate too. I’m serious.
• Gorilla Food makes an incredible Avocado Pie as well – see here.
• I ended up eating this deconstruced dessert avocado in two components.

• Instead of a traditional Chocolate Marquis, this was an Avocado Marquis.
• Chocolate Marquis is made with heavy cream, egg yolks, chocolate and butter and it’s quite rich, heavy, decadent and creamy; but in this case it was with avocado and white chocolate.
• For a marquis I found it very light and the avocado was very faint in flavour and I just wanted more of it.
• The avocado was mixed with white chocolate and it wasn’t that sweet, but actually slightly tart from added lime or calamansi juice. It likely stopped the avocado from browning.
• It was creamy, fluffy and moussey and it looked like a Swiss roll or a roulade, but there was no sponge cake and it was only cream.
• The middle was I think a calamansi gelée and it just made the avocado marquis more acidic and citrusy, but it wasn’t even that sweet to begin with.
• The outside looked like it was coated with chocolate sponge cake powder and I thought it would be easier to use cocoa powder, but this was no short cut.
• I actually tried remaking this at home with actual pieces of avocado. I crusted them in candied pistachio nuts and made it more like a parfait for ease.
• I think I just really wanted to taste avocado since it was in the title of the dessert, but I could see most people not being keen on that.

• The second component was the “avocado pit”, which looked exactly like a real avocado pit.
• There were dollops of calamansi gel and coconut gel on the plate and those sauces worked perfectly in this dessert.
• The coconut gels weren’t really gels, but more like dollops of coconut cream and they tasted like pina coladas.
• They were perfect accents to the dessert and it was the only part I really got coconut flavour.
• The lime gels seemed more like a sauce than gels as well, but they were also quite nice. 
• I felt like there was enough lime going on in all the other components, so another flavoured gel other than lime would not be bad.

• The “avocado pit” was a chocolate dipped calamansi sorbet ball and it was perfect!
• It’s so hard to get a chocolate shell so thin and even like that, but it was even all around.
• The inside of the “pit” was filled with a carbonated calamansi sorbet.
• It was a bit too sour for me and it made my salivary glands go quite instantly, but it was still good and refreshing.
• My favourite part to this component was the black sesame powder underneath. That was delicious, but the lime was an unusual match.
• The powder was nutty with a good amount of ground black sesame, light and airy and disappeared on the tongue.
• The flavours were very Asian and familiar to me and I enjoyed it alone.
• The white pieces were egg white meringues and they were the crispy components to the dish.
• The avocado pit was reminiscent of the famous Kalamansi Explosions at La Belle Auberge, but instead of a liquid calamansi juice it was a refreshing sorbet, which I liked even more.
• I had this last and it worked nicely as the after meal palate cleanser.

Springing into Gnocchi!

 A Goat Cheese Gnocchi with Pepper Coulis Recipe.

I recently attended the Edible Canada Market Dinner with Anna Olsen on Granville Island and posted her recipe for Fiddlehead Salad with Pickled Red Onions & Maple Toasted Pecans. All of her recipes were seasonally driven and inspired by Spring time ingredients. The 5 course menu included Fiddlehead Salad, Goat Cheese Gnocchi, Roasted Halibut, Earl Grey Chiffon Cake and a Cookie Plate. I was a bit surprised to see the gnocchi as a course since it’s usually associated with Winter, but Chef Anna’s intention was to make gnocchi suitable for the warmer weather.

She started her gnocchi demonstration by asking who still made perogies from scratch, so this was her counting the hesitant raise of arms which was maybe 2 out of 60 people. There is just something about making gnocchi, pasta, or dumplings from scratch that seems too labour intensive and complicated. I mentioned in my previous post that her recipes were made for simple entertaining, and judging from her demonstration, these gnocchi seemed no different. Here is her recipe!

On a separate but related note you might be also interested in my posts for Baba’s Perogies (hand made perogies), Edible Canada (brunch), and Edible Canada (Market Dinner with Anna Olsen).

On the table:

Goat Cheese Gnocchi with Pepper Coulis Recipe

Since the kitchen team at Edible Canada was responsible for making the dish for over 60 people that evening, I can’t say it was representable of the recipe which was intended for small scale cooking at home. In theory the recipe makes sense though and by substituting the traditional potato for a combination of goat cheese and cream cheese it took away the density while adding a creamy richness. However I actually don’t find well made gnocchi dense. The Northern Italian style gnocchi is very tender, pillowy and soft. I would recommend trying this type of gnocchi from La Quercia, Federico’s Supper Club or Potobello Ristorante.

What stood out about this course was the pepper coulis and I could honestly make a batch and keep a jar in the fridge to use throughout the week. It was very simple, but there was a bright acidity to it which surprised me since there was no lemon. It was likely due to the quality of the wine they used and the acidity in that, so as always I recommend using a wine you would drink and one with acidic notes. The red bell pepper flavour was dominant and sweet and it would work well served with grilled fish or even as a substitute for tomato sauce on pizza.

Goat Cheese Gnocchi with Pepper Coulis Recipe

This recipe is compliments of Anna Olsen’s recipe book Fresh with Anna Olson.

Serves 6

Pepper Coulis

• ¼ cup olive oil 60 mL
• 1 cup diced onion 250 mL
• 2½ cups diced red bell pepper 625 mL
• ¾ cup dry white wine 185 mL
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs
• 2 sprigs fresh oregano 2 sprigs
• salt & pepper

Goat Cheese Gnocchi

• 4 oz fresh goat cheese, at room temperature 125 g
• 4 oz cream cheese, at room temperature 125 g
• 3 Tbsp finely chopped green onion 45 mL
• 2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 30 mL
• 1 Tbsp finely grated lemon zest 15 mL
• 2 eggs, separated 2
• 1 cup all-purpose flour 250 mL
• ½ tsp salt 2 mL

1. For the pepper coulis, heat the oil in a saucepot over medium heat. Sauté the onion for 5 minutes, until translucent. Add the peppers and sauté for 3 minutes more. Add the wine and herbs and simmer, covered, until the peppers are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and purée. Strain, season, and set aside.

2. For the gnocchi, beat the goat cheese and cream cheese until smooth. Stir in the green onion, parsley, lemon zest, and egg yolks until smooth. Fold in the flour. Whip the egg whites with the salt to soft peaks and fold into the goat cheese mixture in 2 additions.

3. Bring 16 cups (4 L) water to a boil and salt generously. Cut the dough in half. Roll out 1 piece into a log shape about ¾-inch (2 cm) in diameter and cut it into ½-inch (1 cm)
pieces. Place on a floured tray and repeat with the second piece of dough. Drop the gnocchi into the water in 2 batches and simmer until they float, about 3 minutes. Gently remove with a slotted spoon.

4. To serve, heat the coulis and spoon it into a flat-bottomed bowl. Gently place gnocchi on top.

Fresh Take

• Regardless of where you live, early to late spring is peak season for hothouse produce. Buying local hothouse peppers, tomatoes, and cukes is a perfect way to shop locally and enjoy great-tasting produce after a long winter.
• When handling and rolling out the gnocchi dough, feel free to generously flour your work surface and hands—these gnocchi will still remain soft and fluffy. The dough is delicate but not fragile, moist but not too sticky either. Once you cook them and taste your first one, you’ll see what I mean!
• This pepper sauce is simple and bright. If you don’t want to use wine, simply substitute the same measure of water plus 1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice in its place.

Follow Me Foodie to Food Revolution Day!

Today is the 1st annual and global Food Revolution Day! Food Revolution Day is an initiative started by Jamie Oliver and the purpose of the day is to stand up for real food and better food. Technically we should be celebrating this every day though. People from around the world are raising awareness and educating people through cooking classes, seminars and events in their own cities and homes.

So who’s in on it? Everyone! Well sort of, this is the first year and it’s just the beginning. But thousands of people from parents to kids, and celebrities and athletes are working towards the same goal: to promote healthy eating and food education in our communities. Anyone can participate and it can be as easy as making food from scratch, eating healthy, going to a restaurant that is socially responsible, visiting the local famer’s market or simply spreading the word about Food Revolution Day.

Food education needs to start at a young age. You gotta get them when they’re young! Encourage kids to explore food and get them curious about what they eat. Get kids excited about learning about food! Or make them try something new! Take them to the farmers markets and show them where their food comes from. Get them to water the vegetable garden and if you don’t have one, then start one! Even if it’s too late at least the idea is “planted”. Let them help with dinner or help them make something from scratch. You can even even fake “plant” carrots so they can pick them! So many kids have never picked a vegetable from the ground. Just get them interested. It’s suppose to be a fun day and the point is to get them connected with food.

Actually all of the above applies to adults too and not only kids… I even wouldn’t mind picking “staged” carrots. The bottom line is that it doesn’t matter what age you are, we all have to eat, so it doesn’t matter how you participate today, but just participate!

On Follow Me Foodie I’ve decided to post a series of photos celebrating Food Revolution Day.

The theme is kids + food.

How to submit your photo:

1) Email – mpak(@)followmefoodie(dot)com

2) Tweet your photo to @followmefoodie #KidsandFood

3) Leave a comment on this with the appropriate link.

Please size photos to 640 X 480. Include the name and what he/she eating or I’ll call it “kid”.

And no, I’m not going to make you vote for the cutest kid or anything stupid like that. This is about kids + food! Good food! Real food! I don’t even care if it’s cake or cookies, but as long as it’s made from scratch or a healthier version.

Kids + Food.

Emily + Corn. Photo from Karen.

Twins + Carrots. Photo from Stacey Robinsmith.

Lulu + Eggs. Photo from Beatrice at LaTartineGourmande.com

Alyssa + Sugar Cookies. Photo from Holly.

Sierra & Savana + Raw Effing Oysters. Photo from Rob @effingoyster.

Nevaeh + Nori. Photo from Bonnie at BonGateau.ca

Aria + Red Pepper. Photo from Eric.

Dylan + Oatmeal M & M Cookies. Photo from Tanya.

Jayden + Raw Kuushi Oyster. Photo from me.

Kaitlin + Vegetable Garden. Photo from Karen @TinyBites.

Emily & Friend + Grocery Shopping. Photo from Andrew.

Kid + Grapes. Photo from me.

Nolan + Pot of Soup. Photo from Elisabeth and Shawn @AuntiePestos.

Savana + Home made sustainable seafood sushi. Photo from Rob @effingoyster.

Sierra + Vegetable Garden. Photo from Rob @effingoyster.

Kids + Homemade Cupcakes. Photo from @FrostingCupcake.

Robyn-Ashley + Heart Shaped Cheese and Fruit. Photo from Christine @ChancesMommy.

Robyn-Ashley + Watermelon. Photo from Christine @ChancesMommy.

Finn + Freshly baked home made bread. Photo from @macarontriebow.

Lila + Tomato Plant. Photo from @BenGarf.

Jasmine + Panna Cotta with Mango Caviar. Photo from @ChefAlexTung.

Jasmine + Lostock Farms Squab Leg. Photo from @ChefAlexTung.

Kids + Homemade Swirl Pops. Photo from Nicole at {Swirl} Pops.

Green Crackers Recipe

I’ve also included a recipe for Green Crackers from my cousin Tanya.

Message from Tanya: “From the traditional to the new healthy version: My kids love these green crackers, made today from the leaves of organic beetroots from the local farm (hence the reddish colour), along with sesame, and grated cheese on top.” – Tanya.

Green Crackers Recipe

Ingredients

100g boiled Swiss chard leaves, beetroot leaves, or such
150g plain flour
50g corn flour, or cornmeal
2 tbsp caster sugar or coconut sugar (healthier)
2-3 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tsp baking powder
2/3 tsp salt
40g butter
30g cream cheese (optional)
2-3 tbsp cold water

Directions:

1. Preheat over to 180ºC/350ºF.

2. Boil chard/beetroot leaves for 2 min. or until tender. Drain. Chop finely.

3. Mix all dry ingredients in bowl.

4. Last, add butter and cream cheese (optional).

5. Rub in with fingers the butter, cream cheese with dry ingredients until like coarse breadcrumbs.

6. Now add the finely chopped leaves and stalks.

7. Then stir in water, one tablespoon at a time, to bind a pastry.

8. Roll out pastry to 3mm thick.

9. Cut into squares, prick with fork, and if you like, sprinkle some cheese on top.

10. Bake until golden, about 15-18 min.

Follow Me Foodie to The 10th Annual EAT! Vancouver Food + Cooking Festival!

Enter to Win 4 Tickets + Cheese Seminar!

It’s the 10th Annual EAT! Vancouver (June 1-3) and I’m giving away a family pack of tickets (4) and spots in the Dairy Farmers of Canada Cheese Seminar.

Cheese please! If you like cheese and you want to eat some then this event might be for you… that’s all there really is to it! If not, then tell your cheese head friends. The Dairy Farmers of Canada will have cheese experts present a series of seminars during the three days of the event.

Seminars will cover the following topics:

• How to organize a Wine & Cheese evening
• How to serve and store cheeses
• Differences between the crusts and textures of cheeses
• Cheese and wine pairings

Photo from The American Grille (Eat! Vancouver 2010 Culinary Salon Competition)

I’ll also be there with The BC Chef’s Association for their Grand Culinary Salon Competition and Chocolate Demonstration, so I hope to see you there! And if chocolate and cheese isn’t your thing… than you’re weird. Just kidding, but come check out celebrity chefs, demonstrations on the cooking stage, cooking competitions, barista championships, wine and beer tastings, food vendors, restaurants and pop-up culinary cooking classes! For tickets, the event schedule and more info visit EAT! Vancouver.

Enter to Win 4 Tickets to EAT! Vancouver + Cheese Seminar!

How to enter:

1) Comment on this post with your favourite cheese.

or

2) Tweet: RT to enter! I entered to win tickets to @EAT_Vancouver + Cheese Seminar from @followmefoodie! Details –> http://bit.ly/JlmarD

or

3) LIKE the Follow Me Foodie Facebook page and comment with your favourite cheese.

CONTEST CLOSES MONDAY MAY 21 AT 9PM.

Follow Me Foodie to New York Street Food!

Now you’re in New York
These streets will make you feel brand new
Big lights will inspire you
Hear it for New York, New York, New York!
- Empire State of Mind, Alicia Keys

Forget about the big lights! The streets were inspiring enough! I’m a huge fan of exploring street food in every new place I visit. Sure, some places can be a little more intimidating just due to lack of cleanliness, but for the most part I strongly believe street food can speak a lot about food culture. I do like nice places and white table cloth service, but at the end of the day, those places will only show you part of what the city has to offer. To really get a taste, you have to go across the board and experience high and “low” end dining and everything in between. Given that Follow Me Foodie in New York was just under 2 weeks I could only do and eat so much, but I tried my best to take a big bite out of The Big Apple.

If you’re interested I also have posts for: Street Food in Malaysia, Street food in China and Street food in Korea. I’ve tried more street food than this, but since I started Follow Me Foodie, these are the ones I’ve blogged about.

The streets of New York are nothing but entertaining. The billboards and endless in your face advertising is only old once you’re familiar with the city.

See! Entertaining! These guys were promoting their training program at their gym. The guy in the back is doing one armed chin ups on the street lights. Anyway, the world of advertising is branching out in new ways, and so is the world of street food and food carts.

Food carts are literally located on every street corner of New York. They’re not necessarily big fancy vendors either, but for the most part they look like the ones you see above. This was probably the most “old school” type of vendor and there was really a dime a dozen. Most of the ones you see above sell the same stuff and are part of the same company too. They serve simple breakfast sandwiches, $1.50 egg on bread, $.99 coffee, teas and assorted pastries.

From old school to new school. New York is one of the key players dominating this food truck “trend” or movement. I actually see it as more of a movement than a trend because I don’t see the idea disappearing any time soon. It’s here to stay and I prefer street food to fast food any day, so I welcome them with open arms. The food carts in Manhattan were generally spread out so I didn’t try too many, and I was more focused on my restaurant itinerary as well. However there were a few things on the list that became a priority like the famous Halal Guys Food Cart on 53rd and 6th, Big Gay Ice Cream and last but not least the most important, which is featured in this post.

No it wasn’t the gyro. It was something else. There was a signature street food I had to try in New York. Can you guess? Don’t worry I’ll get there. But before I do, let’s walk around some more. I’m sure I’m not the only one, but sometimes the smell of food is all the convincing I need. Grilled meats, fried onions and roasted chestnuts can make me weak at the knees, so when I passed by the gyro place I had to get one.

Walking down streets with endless food vendors is always such a gamble, especially as a tourist, because I don’t know my destiny and what lies ahead. Do I stop at the first place I see? No, of course not. But, what if it ends up being the thing I want? Do I walk all the way back? Or what if there’s another guy further down making gyros that smell even better? Yes, these are all questions that go through my foodie head, but this gyro place was really the one that smelled the best. The pitas were really soft and the chicken was very juicy, but the tzatziki was on the watery side. The nose is a powerful tool and as a “foodie” you should use it often. You can usually trust it.

A spice market in New York? Well it wasn’t so much a market as it was one of the vendors. This is something I wish all outdoor markets had though.

Okay so let me explain the costumes. I was wandering around Times Square following the scent of good food and I ended up in New York City’s “Little Brazil” (Little Brazil Street & 7th Ave). It’s pretty much where most of the Brazilian restaurants are located in Manhattan. I wasn’t even aware there was a Little Brazil, but I’m so glad I fell upon it so randomly. It just so happened to be Brazil Day too (September 2, 2011), hence the costumes, so the outdoor market was full of vendors serving traditional Brazilian food. I don’t know if you can feel my excitement, but I was excited!

Given that my home town (Vancouver) has very limited Brazilian food, and by “limited” I mean we can count them on one hand and have fingers left over, this was a cuisine I was very eager to explore. I didn’t even know where to begin and I wanted to place an order at every station. Everything was relatively new to me. I’ve heard of some of the things like arepas (above) and pastels (almost like an empanada or meat pie), but for the most part this was treading new territory. Being that this was street food, it was likely only a taste of what the cuisine is really like, but I was willing to take anything considering I had tried nothing. And no, a steakhouse doesn’t count as Brazilian food… well I guess it depends on the steakhouse, but for the most part, the cuisine offers much more than grilled meats.

There were so many options and I wanted to try everything, but this ending up catching my attention. This vendor was making acaraje which I’ve never seen before. Another reason was because almost every Brazilian person I passed by was holding one of these. The line up was long and it was busy with local Brazilians and Brazilian tourists. After randomly talking to people in the line up and those eating them, I was convinced that this was the thing to try.

Acaraje (Vatapa e Camarao)

• Black Eyed Pea, Shrimp and Salad Fritters $8
• This was expensive for a baseball sized snack, but it was freaking amazing! It was almost like a spicy Brazilian pizza pocket.
• I have no idea how “authentic” this is since it was my first time trying it, but I loved it!
• This is apparently the comfort food for many Brazilians and it’s typical street food that is popular in Brazil and Nigeria.
• The Black Eyed Pea fritter was pretty much a deep fried donut and it’s supposed to be authentically deep fried in palm oil.
• The Black Eyes Peas are all mashed up and it’s comparable to deep fried corn bread (Hush Puppies) or a Johnny Cake, but it’s not sweet.
• The donut is typically cut in half and stuffed with a saucy and spicy shrimp and tomato filling and topped with a rich and creamy cashew and/or coconut milk sauce.
• The shrimps were sauteed in tomatoes and onions and it had a bit of heat and it tasted like a sweet and spicy red pepper hot sauce.
• The Vatapá (yellow sauce) tasted like sweet melted cream of corn meets a thick, rich and creamy bechamel sauce.
• There was an excellent sweet and savoury balance, creamy and crispy textures from the donut, and the whole thing was saucy and moist.
• Although it was very small in size, the thing was really filling and hearty.

I know this isn’t Brazilian, but I just really like Cubanos so I got one. I think this was only $4 and it was one of the best Cubanos I’ve had so far. The one from Cafe Habana was also excellent, but for half the price this one was a bang for your buck. I also tried a gourmet one from The Spotted Pig, but this one did the job. It was the right type of thin and crispy Cuban bread, no mayo, traditional mustard, nicely roasted and juicy pork, pickles, Swiss cheese and ham.

So after a satisfying gyro, an extremely satisfying Acaraje and a very satisfying Cubano, I still didn’t try the thing I was originally set out to find. I came specifically for one New York street food staple and I wasn’t going to leave without trying it. I wanted it to be from somewhere good too so I had to work the nose overtime. But what was this one item?

Photo from Timtravelturtle.com

No. That would have been anti-climatic. It wasn’t the New York pretzel, although I ordered one just to try. Most of them are hard and nothing worth raving about (in my opinion), but I don’t doubt there are some carts making killer pretzels. I just didn’t experience one. So if it wasn’t the pretzel what was it?

Bingo! Did you guess? I wasn’t going to leave New York without a New York style hot dog! Everyone always talks about the New York hot dog and if there is one street food that screams New York, I would say this is it. This was no doubt the best smelling hot dog stand I walked by in Times Square. I didn’t go beyond Times Square to look for a New York hot dog, so it could get better, but if this was my one New York hot dog experience, then I would be satisfied.

This was actually the first hot dog stand I saw and I ended up walking all the way back just to try the hot dog here. It was right by the square in Times Square so I questioned its “authenticity” because I find prime locations usually the “tourist trap”, and then the ones hidden in smaller streets the local sweet spots. It didn’t help that the guy kept shouting “Hot Dogs! Sausages! Come get your hot dogs! Get the best hot dog in New York! Best sausages right here!”; but honestly his sausages really looked the best. (Mind out of the gutter please). This might not hold much weight coming from a tourist, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a local and tourist favourite.

There are many other beloved New York hot dogs being served at casual restaurants, but apparently the sausage is all being sourced from the same company. Gray’s Papaya is a casual hot dog shop most famous for the New York style hot dog and they supply several of the food carts too. So besides the condiments and maybe the bun, there’s nothing really unique about the majority of hot dog places in New York. That’s why I wanted to try them here. The sausages actually looked home made and different than most. Just look at the size of the sausage ring! These aren’t any ol’ sausages. The stand didn’t even have an official name, but look for the guys that look like bouncers… and possibly ride Harleys.

New York Hot Dog

• $8 (?)
• These were pretty fatty and coarsely ground meaty sausages and I think it was a mix of beef, veal and pork.
• The sausage was super juicy with a snappy casing and it tasted very fresh.
• The meat was tender and it was full of whole spices like fennel seeds and there was even a bit of spice and heat to follow, but I wouldn’t say it was spicy.
• It was piled generously with sauteed sweet onions and bell peppers and it didn’t need any other condiments or sauces.
• The hot dog bun was flat (as it should be) and I wouldn’t mind it toasted more, but it was a legit New York style hot dog bun.
• It could have been made with potato flour and it was soft, fresh and not dry.
• Although it was a fatty sausage, it actually wasn’t as oily as I expected.
• The hot dog was stellar and the sausage was more impressive than the bun, but no real complaints and I would recommend it.

And of course I had to have dessert. I just stopped at the next dessert food truck I saw which was a frozen yogurt truck. There are tons of frozen yogurt food trucks in New York. This one was from “Original Tart Frozen Yogurt” and it was quite standard. One of my favourite frozen dessert trucks I tried was Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream. Ice cream, frozen yogurt, gelato… pending it’s good quality, I can almost have one any time of day at any time of year.

Edible Canada Market Dinner with Anna Olsen

Edible Canada at the Market seems to be the happening restaurant on Granville Island and this is partially due to their successful BC Guest Chef Market Dinners. The last time I visited the restaurant was for brunch (see my post here) and I’ve been meaning to check it out for dinner. Since this was a ticketed event, featuring a guest chef, it still wasn’t representable of their regular night or menu. Therefore the food and my experience only applies to this particular dinner.

Last Saturday I was invited to attend Edible Canada’s Guest Chef Market Dinner with Food Network Canada’s Anna Olsen. Being that it was a celebrity chef, this was one of their bigger Market Dinners, otherwise they are normally intended for 24 guests and take place at the back of the restaurant. I actually would have preferred a smaller and more intimate event and I would suggest going early and getting seats closest to the ‘stage’ for a more personal experience. That is if there are future events of this size and nature.

The last time I attended a Market Dinner was back when Edible Canada was still inside the Granville Island Public Market and called Edible BC. I attended the Bacchus Market Dinner featuring Chef Lee Parsons and it took place just outside their store. Now that the store has grown into a full on restaurant serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with an attached retail store, open kitchen, professional demonstration kitchen and patio, my experience was quite different, but the concept was still the same.

The Market Dinners take place a few times each month and they are ticketed events open to the public ($85-125/per person). Each dinner will feature a well known National or local Canadian Chef who will demonstrate each course in the Edible Canada demonstration kitchen. The multicourse menus are seasonally inspired and paired with Canadian wines. I actually wish they offered tickets without wine pairings too though because you don’t get the full value if you happen to be driving and unable to plan for a ride home or taxi. Guests are also offered 10% off the retail store and future event bookings made that evening.

I guess you could say I grew up watching Anna Olsen’s baking show Sugar on Food Network Canada. Being that baking takes much time and patience I would always get so jealous that she could fit 3 recipes in one half hour episode. That’s partially why I also watched 30 Minute Meals, it wasn’t because the recipes were particularly inspiring, but it was because it was in real time (in theory at least). Nonetheless it was a pleasure to watch Anna Olsen in action and it was like watching a live episode of Fresh. She even made an effort to do her rounds and greet each table which I’m sure everyone appreciated.

I remember being caught off guard when Fresh was introduced. What? Anna Olsen makes savoury food? I was so attached to her association with baking and Sugar that I didn’t know what to expect. Her style, food, and even persona is honest and simple and I felt the same way about the recipes she showcased at this dinner. It was seasonally inspired recipes made for the everyday home cook and easy entertaining.

She demonstrated each course with recipes from her cook books Fresh with Anna Olsen and her newest cook book Back to Baking. Given the nature and size of the event, the kitchen team at Edible Canada had to take on the menu and recreate her recipes, which is as scary as it sounds. I do commend them for taking on the challenge since recipes are not easily mass produced (I say that from experience… *ahem* Recipe to Riches), but I do think a smaller event would have left a more satisfying experience with more control on execution. With that being said I’m not going to go into the food due the circumstances of it being a one time cook book focused dinner.

On the table:

Kir Royale

Fiddlehead Salad with Pickled Red Onion & Maple Toasted Pecans

Wine pairing: Okanagan Crush Pad Rose NV

Restaurant: Campagnolo Roma
Cuisine: Italian/Pizza/Pasta
Last Visited: May 2, 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC (Commercial/Grandview)
Address: 2297 East Hastings Street
Transit: EB Hastings St FS Willingdon Ave
Price Range: $10-20 ($15-18 mains)

1: Poor 2: OK 3: Good 4: Very good 5: Excellent 6: FMF Must Try!

Food: 4.5-5 (Based on this dinner)
Service: 4
Ambiance: 4
Overall: 4.5
Additional comments:

• Sister restaurant to Campagnolo
• Sister restaurant to Fat Dragon BBQ
• Local/neighbourhood favourite
• Busy at peak hours
• Limited seating
• Affordable
• No reservations
• Wine/beer
• Dine in/Take out
• Lunch Wed-Sun 11:30am-2;30pm
• Dinner Mon-Sun 5pm-10pm
• Weekend brunch

**Recommendations: n/a

It was my first time at Campagnolo Roma and I came for their Quinto Quarto Dinner Menu (ticketed event open to the public). Although I haven’t been here on a regular night, I had a strong feeling that the chef’s talent likely exceeded what would be offered on their regular menu. It’s an affordable and casual Italian restaurant serving pizzas and pastas, and I’ve heard they’re very good, but the Quinto Quarto menu showed so much more creativity and depth. I guess the style of menus are completely different, and the only commonality was that it was Italian cuisine being prepared by Chef Ted Anderson; but honestly, this creative mind needs a bigger canvas.

I don’t want to say Vancouver doesn’t have any chefs like him, but I will say we don’t have many chefs that have the opportunity to be as gutsy as him… I guess that’s literally and figuratively. Part of the reason is because we live in “Vanilla-Vancouver”, and by that I mean the tastes of the masses are somewhat ‘safe’. Don’t get me wrong, I love Vancouver and the city is incredibly multi-cultural with a diverse dining scene, but for the most part it’s still “meat and potatoes”, and by that I mean steak and local organic fingerlings.

It’s only been the last couple years or so that pork belly started being appreciated by the masses and showing up on menus outside of Asian cuisine. I wouldn’t go as far to say that Chef Ted is the Chris Consentino of Vancouver (see my post on his restaurant Incanto here), or the Derek Dammann of Vancouver, but given the appropriate restaurant and complete creative freedom, I don’t doubt he could be. Thank goodness for Campagnolo Roma’s special event dinners, because it would be such a shame to hide the offally talented skills of this chef under pizzas and pastas alone.

The Quinto Quarto Dinner Menu ($49/per person) was served alla famiglia (family style) at communal tables. They used to do the same sort of events at sister restaurant ReFuel (now closed), but my Whole Hog Dinner experience there wasn’t the best. However on this occasion they nailed it. Yes, it was a different restaurant, chef and slight change in staff, but the logistics were arranged much better and there were no shortage of portions. In fact, there was more than enough for even seconds and overall it was well worth it.

The Quinto Quarto menu featured all types of offal (innards and organs of an animal) which I am no stranger to. I understand it’s not for everyone, but really this type of dining should be celebrated providing that the meat is well sourced. It’s not about using selective parts of the animal, but valuing the whole animal and not wasting any edible parts of it. And in this case, he did a very good job preparing and showcasing offal especially due to the circumstances. For the most part I’m not keen on event style dinners because I find more often than not the food looks and tastes “mass-produced”, but in this case it was well executed.

The special event menu featured 5 courses and it’s not that every single one was the best thing I’ve ever had or even flawless, but it was creative, exciting, and refreshing. Honestly I think this menu barely scratched the surface of what this chef is really capable of, but I’m glad I had at least a taste of what it could be. This was probably just “playing in the kitchen” for him. I know this menu isn’t representative of what they offer on a regular night, but I was impressed and it made me eager to come back with or without the event.

On the table:

Antipasto - Giardiniera (Italian Pickled Vegetables) - 3/6 (Good)

• This is just pickled and spicy vegetables which helped balance the richness of the Pork Liver Pâté.
• There were carrots, cauliflower, pimentos (cherry peppers) and onions.
• It was a good balance of sour and spicy and the veggies were still quite crunchy.
• There weren’t many other spices and seasonings going on except for maybe some garlic and it was nice and simple.

Antipasto - Pork Liver Pâté - 3.5/6 (Good-Very good)

Antipasto - Pane Bianco (Italian White Bread)

Primo - Pappardelle Con Ragu di Regaglie - 4/6 (Very good)

• Slow cooked chicken hearts & duck gizzards.
• So it wasn’t pappardelle, but the rigatoni was fine.
• This was very simple, but well executed. I only wish it had some fresh basil leaves on top. If there were added Morels I would have been over the moon.
• The rigatoni pasta was well salted and cooked al dente with a light coating of savoury and tangy fresh tomato sauce which adhered to the noodles.
• Duck gizzards are perhaps one of my favourite organs in the organ category and he used them whole rather than sliced.
• Duck gizzards are plump and they taste like very tender dark meat chicken meets duck leg. It’s almost like a duck-dark meat chicken nugget.
• They’re not rubbery or chewy, but almost a bit soft and I think they were cooked confit so they had lots of flavour and retained moisture.
• The chicken hearts were basically diced and although they were tossed in raw and cooked in the heat of the pasta, they actually still overcooked and got quite firm and slightly tough. Naturally they are chewy, but these were just a bit chewier than normal although not dry.
• It was a pretty substantial pasta and it’s good enough to be put on a menu with maybe one more ingredient.
• It baffles me that chicken hearts can be eaten almost raw and the rest of the chicken has to be cooked. I’ve seen seared or sashimi style chicken on Iron Chef, but generally speaking I’m still in awe.

Secondo - Il Zampone - 6/6 (FMF Must Try!)

• Cotechino stuffed trotter, red wine braised lentils
• I want this for my birthday. I’m so used to having pork hock Asian style or even German style, but Italian style like this is the winner for me thus far.
• I actually think it’s my first time trying Il Zampone, but it certainly won’t be my last.
• Il Zampone is basically stuffed pig’s trotter or Italian luncheon meat. It’s gourmet SPAM.
• Make a $5 piece of meat taste $50 and this is what you get. I loved it.
• The fat under the skin was well rendered and the skin was slightly chewy rather than crunchy or crispy, but it was still good.
• For what it was there was a good balance of meat and fat and it was obviously a very rich, filling and heavy dish.
• I’m not keen on only gelatinous textures, and I prefer it be melt in your mouth creamy when I have it, and this was. This one had just the right amount to be enjoyed.
• The gelatinous pork trotters and cured meat (tasted like roasted ham) were all shredded and chopped up to form a stuffing which eventually ends up being like a sausage.
• The zampone was incredibly tender, juicy, creamy, not chewy and well flavoured with an apparent sweetness from either cloves or all spice. It was beautifully aromatic and not overpowering.
• The lentils were possibly the best lentils I’ve had to date, although the ones from Hawksworth’s is close competition – see Confit Pork Shoulder with braised lentils.
• These lentils were also braised in delicious pork drippings and red wine.
• The lentils had a deep and complex savoury umami flavour that was nothing but addicting.
• The lentils were tender yet firm and they were mouthfuls of just super juicy bites which I ate like there was no tomorrow.
• They were braised with carrots, onions and celery so they had the basic aromatics.
• Just look at the chopping of the vegetables too. There was good attention to detail despite the family style presentation.
• I kid you not, there was maybe a spoonful of lentils left spread out on the plate and the server came to take the dish away and I almost slapped his hand. Had there been more bread I would have mopped it up, but I did finish the last bite.
• If you like all parts of the pig I will also recommend the Sizzling Pork Sisig or Dinuguan from Kumare.
• Other dishes which celebrate the pig was the Berkshire Pig from Blue Hill in New York and the Whole Hog Dinner from ReFuel.

Contorno - Rapini e ortica saltata

• nduja bread crumbs
• This was the healthiest dish of the night and it didn’t even taste that healthy because it was a bit too salty. I still liked it though, but I have a high tolerance for salt.
• It was braised or sautéed Stinging Nettle and rapini which is a bitter green.
• Stinging Nettle is almost like fuzzy spinach and it helps the urinary track.
• They were cooked well and packed with flavour with a nice heat to follow.
• There was a sweet and spicy red pepper sauce and I felt like there was Siracha sauce in it, but it could be because I was seeing the colour. I saw no chili flakes, but there was a nice kick.
• The vegetables were sauteed in some vinegar for acidity and the slight bitterness of the rapini ended up being desired next to the indulgent stuffed pork trotters.

Insalata – Treviso con frataglie all’aceto – 3/6 (Good)

• Sweetbread vinaigrette, ramps
• I like how they stuck to Italian tradition and served the salad after the second main course.
• This salad was for carnivores. The salad part was the garnish for the meat to sit on top of.
• There were a generous amount of sweetbreads and pork crackling so it was a very meaty and rich salad.
• The pickled red onions ended up being a great contrast to cut the richness of the greasy pork rinds though.
• I liked the pork rinds, but I would have preferred pancetta because it goes so well with sweetbreads.
• The sweetbreads were chopped up in small pieces and a bit overcooked and firm rather than being creamy and soft. The membranes also weren’t completely removed so they were a bit stringy still. I also which they were seasoned a bit more, but the rest of the salad had flavour.
• I loved the concept and creativity, but it wasn’t the highlight of the meal.

Dolce - Cannoli Quinto Quarto - Candied Beef Tendon Cannoli – 6/6 (FMF Must Try!)

• Get out! Seriously. “Get out” with a push like Elaine gives Jerry on Seinfeld “Get out”. This was sick. I mean that in a good way too.
• Chef made “maple bacon” seem tired and over done. Maple bacon is good, but after a while it’s nice to see something new. And this, this was new!
• I don’t know where he got this idea from, but if it was all him… then what. the. funhouse.
• I give this a 6/6 and call it a “must try” due to creativity, but not necessarily due to it tasting ridiculously amazing. They did taste very good though!
• This was my favourite of the night and it wasn’t because it tasted the best because it didn’t, but it was because it was the most inspiring and unique things I’ve had this year.
• The candied tendon was executed like a marmalade and it was infused with aromatic fruit flavours so it tasted like fruit jellies. It was AMAZING.
• There were also little pieces of bittersweet chocolate throughout the very lightly sweetened and fluffy ricotta cheese filling.
• The bits of candied tendon and pieces of chocolate were folded into the ricotta cheese filling and piped into the cannoli.
• The cannoli pastry was light and crisp and not crunchy and the tendons were chewy just like bits of fruit gummies.
• Honestly I can’t stop thinking about this dish and talked about it days after. I want to cry thinking about how smart it was.
• This is the amount they gave for 4 people too. Talk about generous.
• I have to also mention the pork blood ice cream as another very creative dessert I had at their sister restaurant Refuel (now closed).

Wyoming Premium Farms Abuse Alleged By Humane Society

**WARNING: GRAPHIC VIDEO

For the full story see the Huffington post article here.

It’s not necessary to watch more than 5 seconds to get the point. I could barely get through the video myself. I knew it happened and I’ve heard the stories, but this was just another reminder. This is one of the many videos out there addressing the unfortunate subject, but it doesn’t make it any less significant. If it was, I wouldn’t be doing this. This wasn’t supposed to be my post today, but I couldn’t concentrate on anything else after viewing it at 2am. I really debated whether or not to post this video, but my journey with food led me to it and I couldn’t just ignore it. It’s the hard reality.

This video showed only the one pig farm and I can’t even imagine what goes on in some of the chicken farms. This is only part of the story and it would be unfair to generalize all livestock farms as guilty of these practices. I’m not about to advocate going vegetarian or vegan, or push ”Meatless Monday” on you, because I obviously enjoy my meat and seafood too. My intentions are not to scare people away from meat and seafood because I don’t see them as being bad things or even being bad for you. As Todd Hofer once said: “Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you”.

What I am suggesting is to question where your food comes from. Just be a conscious shopper and ask your suppliers or restaurants questions about their sourcing. If you want to go a step ahead, research those companies and their practices because things can’t always be taken at face value. I guess this video reinforces that thought as well. If you’ve already been taking the initiative, then all the power to you and I would love to hear your discoveries.

I admit that I don’t always question the things I eat, and eating 100% organic and sustainable would and can be challenging. What I hope is that the future of the industry will be different and I do believe it will be. I also hope organic and sustainable will be made approachable and attainable by the masses and not just for those who can afford it. I hope the industry can make it easier for people to make the right decisions, but we also have to demand it. I know. I have many hopes, and there is a lot more that could be said about this topic and I probably just opened a can of worms, but I would rather start a discussion and hear your thoughts as well. So please feel free to kindly share your comments.

Happy Mother’s Day!

Mama, Mama you know I love you
Mama, Mama you’re the queen of my heart
Your love is like tears from the stars
Mama I just want you to know lovin’ you is like food to my soul
A Song for Mama Lyrics – Boyz II Men

I know! How good am I? So good right?! How perfect are those lyrics for this blog? To be honest I didn’t just discover it, but I actually made a poster and spelt out the word “Soul” with a collage of accumulated food pics. I made it in grade 8 for an art project and gave it to my mom on Mother’s Day. I know! So sweet huh? Yes… foodie then and foodie + nerd now… although some may argue then too?

Anyway forget about me, today is about you! Well only if you’re a Mother. Happy Mother’s Day to all the Moms! Without any of you, where would the rest of us be? Obviously not here. So yay for you! I hope you get spoiled silly with a million brunches, dinners, wine and chocolate! And if you didn’t, then e-mail this recipe to whoever should have been responsible for all of the above and subject line: It’s never too late to make me this.

Sautéed BC Spot Prawns on Ratatouille Saffron Sauce Recipe

Ratatouille

• 200 ml red pepper diced
• 200 ml yellow pepper diced
• 200 ml zucchini
• 4 small heirloom tomatoes
• 60 ml tomato paste
• 150 ml white wine
• 5 ml oregano minced
• 2.5 ml tsp thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste

Saffron Sauce

• 30 ml onion
• 100 ml white wine
• 200 ml chicken stock
• 150 ml cream
• 10 ml lemon juice to taste
• Pinch of saffron (to taste)

• 12 BC Spot Prawns
• 30 ml butter
• 30 ml olive oil
• 2 cloves of garlic, minced
• 5 ml chopped parsley
• 5ml preserved lemon minced or lemon zest
• Salt and pepper to taste

• Shallots, thinly sliced
• 250 ml flour
• Oil for deep frying

Directions: 

1. Place olive oil in small saucepot on medium-high heat. Sauté peppers and red onions in one pan and zucchini in another. Put zucchini in with other sautéed vegetables and add tomatoes, tomato paste, oregano, and thyme. Add 50 ml white wine if desired and season with salt and pepper.

2. Place white wine and chicken stock in a pan and reduce to half. Add cream and saffron to sauce and reduce to desired texture.

3. Dredge shallots with flour in a small bowl. Shake off excess flour and deep fry until crispy and golden brown. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Saute prawns in garlic, butter and lemon juice. Saute quickly and add preserved lemon or lemon zest at the end. Salt and pepper to taste.

5. To plate, take ring and put 2 tbsp of ratatouille in the ring on centre of plate. Combine two prawns together in an embrace and put in front of ratatouille. Garnish ratatouille with crispy shallots and drizzle with saffron sauce as desired.

Recipe adapted from Hot Chefs Fresh Plates form the BC Chefs’ Association.
Note: I like serving it with the heads, or you can remove the heads and deep fry them and serve them on the side. Whatever you do, just don’t waste them. Save them for seafood stocks or whatever, but just please don’t waste parts of edible food.